North Wales
North Wales has it all - nowhere else will you find mountain crags, sport, trad, bouldering, scrambling and sea cliffs within such a small area. Home to the first recorded rock climb in the UK (1798), North Wales has arguably been the home of British climbing ever since, and is one of the most varied and comprehensive areas of rock in the country, if not the world.
Climbing types: Trad, Sport, Bouldering, Scrambling
Rock type: Limestone, Dolerite, Rhyolite, Slate, Sandstone, Quartzite, Granite, Gritstone
Llanberis Pass
As you come over the Pen y Pass col and head down towards the town of Llanberis, this extraordinary mountain pass takes you through layers and layers of climbing history, with crags either side as far as the eye can see. Routes here have achieved mythical status, and climbers from all over the world come here to test themselves against the yardstick of past generations. Single pitch, multi pitch, bouldering and scrambling abound, with first ascents across the decades chalked up by legendary climbers - here you tread in the footsteps of climbing royalty.
Grades
Trad: Beginner to Expert
Bouldering: Beginner to Expert
Scrambling: Beginner to Expert
Ogwen Valley
With classic winding mountain routes and long slab multi pitches in the easier grades, the Ogwen Valley is often where climbers cut their North Wales teeth. Scramblers love it here too, with dozens of routes across the grades. With amazing flora and fauna (including pygmy ponies and goats!), glacial lakes, stunning rock formations and views out to the sea, climbing doesn’t get much more scenic than this.
Grades
Trad: Beginner to Expert
Bouldering: Beginner to Expert
Scrambling: Beginner to Expert
Tremadog
When it’s wet on the mountains, it’s a safe bet that Tremadog will be dry. This compact, easily accessible series of crags contains some of the most popular climbs in the country, and deservedly so. Single pitch and multi pitch routes span the grade range from complete beginner to cutting edge, with gems at every level. Thanks to BMC management, routes are clean and well maintained, with good paths and solid abseils.
Grades
Trad: Beginner to Expert
Clogwyn Du’r Arddu
North Wales’ big scary monster, Clogwyn Du’r Arddu (Cloggy) is situated half way up the Snowdon mountain railway, a 90 minute walk from Llanberis. It’s well worth the slog though, as this huge, hulking cliff houses a fierce collection of classics both ancient and modern, including the world’s first E9 route. Rarely in perfect condition but oh so good when it is, bagging routes here is a big tick for any climber, and gains you serious bragging rights in the pub afterwards.
Grades
Trad: Intermediate to Expert
The Moelwyns
Looking down on the old mining village of Blaenau Ffestiniog, the Moelwyns crags are often quieter than their burlier cousins in the Snowdon Massif. Reliably grippy, even in the rain, the climbing here is excellent, with lovely slabby multi pitch routes towards the easier end of the grade making for excellent first leads.
Grades
Trad: Beginner to Intermediate
Gogarth
Travel out to the far western tip of Anglesey, and you come to Gogarth, the major venue for Welsh sea cliff climbing. With bags of atmosphere, shedloads of history and a beautiful backdrop, you will never forget your first time climbing here. Routes are big, serious and testing, but the rewards are even bigger. Sea birds and seals pop by to say hello, and and the climbing itself is world class.
Grades
Trad: Intermediate to Expert
Slate
The Welsh slate industry was for a long time one of the main employers in Snowdonia; at one time North Wales housed the largest slate quarry and mine in the world. Many of the old quarry faces have been developed by climbers over the years, breathing new life into this post-industrial landscape with some highly unusual and exciting routes. Climbing on slate is quite unique, and combined with the unworldly setting, this is an experience like no other.
Grades
Trad: Intermediate to Expert
Sport: Beginner to Expert
Best of the rest
Lliwedd - Monster trad and scrambling in the Snowdon horseshoe, with routes up to 12 pitches!
Holyhead mountain - More of a glorified hill, this lovely Anglesey quartzite outcrop has a great collection of single pitch and small multi pitch routes.
Gwynant Valley - Home to some weird and wonderful routes, such as the vertical caving adventure of Lockwood’s Chimney, the crags here are less-travelled, but full of classics nonetheless.
Lleyn peninsula - Wild, esoteric, adventurous climbing on sea cliffs and inland. Not for the faint-hearted!
Pen Trwyn - Limestone sport and trad at the upper limits. Since its vogue in the 1980s, these crags have been at the cutting edge of UK top level climbing. DayGlo spandex highly advised.