Hoy and Orkney
Best known for the iconic Old Man of Hoy sea stack, Hoy and Orkney provide some of the most remote routes in the British Isles. Getting there is a large part of the adventure - these rugged islands don’t give up their riches easily - but you’ll be dining out on your stories for years to come. Aside from the climbing, these islands are a must-visit destination in their own right - beautiful, rugged, full of history, and (perhaps most importantly) home to some excellent whisky distilleries.
Climbing types: Trad, Sport
Rock type: Red Sandstone
Hoy
Unless you are climbing in the mid to high extreme grades, you will only be coming here with one objective - The Old Man of Hoy. Somehow still standing despite the best efforts of the ferocious local weather, this 137m finger of rock has been an indelible part of UK climbing history ever since a BBC live broadcast of the country’s best climbers tackling the stack went out in 1967.
Round the corner is the mammoth St Johns Head. At over 400m, this is one of the largest sea cliffs in the UK, and the routes are appropriately intimidating, rarely done, and very serious indeed.
Grades
Trad: Intermediate to Expert
Orkney
Although not as famed for climbing as its neighbouring Hoy, Orkney has some excellent routes of its own, and also a couple of sea stacks to boot - Yesnaby Castle and North Gaulton Castle. On the mainland, Yesnaby is the most developed crag, mainly trad with a couple of sport climbs in an old quarry. The routes are on the smaller side on the whole, but still pack a punch nonetheless.
Grades
Trad: Beginner to Expert
Sport: Beginner to Intermediate
This way to the Old Man!
First belay, Old Man of Hoy
Topping out on the Old Man of Hoy
The crux second pitch, Old Man of Hoy
Beware Old Men!
Sun sets behind the Old Man of Hoy